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r> Smia Fiskerestaurant FISH RESTAURANT Offline map Google map ( 71 67 11 70; www.smia.
no; Fosnagata 30b; mains Nkr220-275; 1pm-midnight) The much-garlanded Smia fish restaurant is in an old forge, adorned from wall to ceiling with bellows and blacksmith’s tools – plus a couple of whale vertebrae and a hanging split cod.
The fish soup (Nkr95) makes a great starter, or you can also have it as a main (Nkr165).
Sj?stjerna FISH RESTAURANT Offline map Google map ( 71 67 87 78; www.sjostjerna.
no, in Norwegian; Skolegata 8; mains Nkr195-255; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) Here’s another recommended fish restaurant, which offers a similar menu and marine-themed interior.
Eat inside or on its pleasant street-side terrace, beside pedestrianised Skolegata.
Bryggekanten RESTAURANT, BAR Offline map Google map ( 71 67 61 60; www.fireb.
no, in Norwegian; Storkaia 1; pizza Nkr115, mains Nkr235-295; 1.
30pm-midnight Mon- Sat) This cheerful brasserie and bar sits right beside the harbour.
It’s a great choice, even if only for a drink.
Even better, tuck into a pizza, bruschetta or sandwich on its broad terrace.
Inside, where full dinners are served, is more intimate.
Here, too, the menu is imaginative, taking traditional ingredients and giving them a new twist in creative dishes, such as klipfish with chorizo and creamed cabbage.
Drinking & Entertainment Onkel og Vennene BAR, CAFE Offline map Google map ( 71 67 58 10; Kaibakken 1; ) At 1st-floor level this is a popular place for an evening beer or snack (Nkr85 to Nkr150).
It has great harbour views, whether inside or from the small veranda, where smokers can puff away.
Christian’s Bar BAR Offline map Google map ( 71 57 03 00; Storgata 17) On the 1st floor of Hotell Kristiansund, Christian’s Bar is an attractive pub where the over-25s congregate.
Mocca CLUB Offline map Google map ( 71 67 74 04; Hauggata 16; from 8pm Fri & Sat) The town’s younger crowd tends to hang out at this cool weekends-only venue.
JP Clausens BAR Offline map Google map ( 71 57 12 00; Storgata 41-43; 8pm-2am Fri & Sat) The piano and wine bar of the Rica Hotel is more for slow waltzers.
Shopping Klippfiskbutikken FOOD Offline map Google map (V?ogeveien) Genial Knut Garshol, a member of the international slow-food ecogastronomy movement, will buttonhole you and enthusiastically proclaim the virtues of klipfish at this splendid temple to the mighty cod.
Try too his grandmother’s recipe for bacalao, to eat in or take away.
Information Tourist office ( 71 58 54 54; www.visitkristiansund.com; Kongens plass 1; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) Free internet access.
Getting There & Away Air The town’s Kvernberget airport ( 71 68 30 50) is on Nordlandet island.
There are frequent flights daily to/from both Oslo and Bergen.
Buses travel regularly to/from the airport (Nkr60, 15 minutes, up to eight daily) to meet incoming flights.
Boat Express boats connect Kristiansund with Trondheim (3? hours, up to three daily from Nordm?rskaia).
The Hurtigruten coastal ferry also calls in daily at Holmakaia.
Bus Inland buses run hourly to Molde (Nkr156, 1? hours) and on to ?lesund (3? hours).
The coastal run that rolls along the Atlanterhavsveien (see the boxed text, Click here ) is much more impressive and scarcely longer.
Northwards, there are up to three buses daily to Trondheim (Nkr400, 4? hours).
Getting Around The Sundb?t ferry (adult/child Nkr25/13, day ticket Nkr50) claims to be ‘the world’s oldest public transport system in uninterrupted use’.
That’s a heavy reputation for these small, squat boats to bear.
Whatever the history, it’s well worth the ride for its own sake and for the special perspective it gives of the harbour.
Boats link the town centre and the islands of Innlandet, Nordlandet and Gomelandet, running every half hour, Monday to Saturday.
The full circuit takes 20 minutes.
Around Kristiansund GRIP Huddled together on a tiny rocky island as though for protection against Atlantic gales, the village of Grip with its pastel-painted houses sits amid an archipelago of 80 islets and skerries.
The only elevation is the 47m- tall Bratth?rskollen lighthouse on a nearby skerry, built in 1888 and prodding skywards.
In the early 19th century, after a drop in cod hauls and two powerful storms, the village was practically abandoned.
But it bounced back, its population swelling during the cod-fishing season when basing yourself on the island saved three hours of hard rowing each way from the mainland.
Imagine, as you wander among today’s sprinkle of houses, spring fishing seasons, when more than 1000 fisherfolk hunkered down here.
The last permanent inhabitants gave up the fight in 1974.
There’s a small photographic display with an accompanying sheet in English in one of the storehouses.
A summertime cafe serves snacks in what was once the village school (only three pupils were left when its bell rang for the last time in 1972).
The island’s stave church , much restored, dates from the late 15th century.
Its altarpiece, discarded at the time of the Reformation, was found in a boathouse and restored to its rightful place in the 1930s.
The lively frescos in the nave were revealed when later whitewash was stripped off.
From late May to late August, the M/S Gripexpressen (www.gripexpressen.
no, in Norwegian) plies the 14km between Kristiansund’s Piren terminal and Grip (40 minutes; adult/child Nkr275/135 return) once or twice daily.
Total journey time is 3? hours, including time ashore.
In principle, there’s a guided tour included within the fare.
Top of section Tr?ndelag Includes ? Trondheim The Route North Hell Stiklestad Steinkjer & North Namsos R?rvik Leka Why Go? Trondheim, the most northerly place in Norway that merits the title ‘city’, is the major draw.
You’ll find fulfilment wandering its medieval streets and quays, savouring its buzzing student life and sampling its pretty wharfside restaurants and bars.
Dig into its history too as you visit Nidaros Cathedral, Scandinavia’s largest medieval structure, and prowl around the vast, open-air Sverresborg Tr?ndelag Folkemuseum.
Tr?ndelag is a region of rumpled hills, stippled with ox-blood-coloured farmsteads and ruffled green with wheat and barley.
Hay stands out to dry on distinctive long, low trellises like a line of shaggy yaks in procession, and always there’s water near at hand, whether sea, lake or incised fjord.
Amid such rural splendour, atmospheric Stiklestad, famous as the site of the martyrdom of King Olav (St Olav) and an easy detour from the Arctic Highway, is at the heart of every Norwegian’s sense of national identity.
When to Go Mid- to late June Winter has retreated, and visitors are relatively few.
Last week of July Festivities in honour of St Olav in Trondheim and Stiklestad.
September Trondheim has a fresh buzz as its student population returns.
Best Places to Eat ? Vertshuset Tavern ? Brod & Cirkus ? Baklandet Skydsstasjon ? Havfruen Best Places to Stay ? Britannia Hotel ? Tingvold Park Hotel ? Chesterfield Hotel ? Trondheim InterRail Centre (Click here ) Tr?ndelag Highlights Browse Nidaro
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