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Next door is the groovy Bar Far de Tossa, overlooking the steep drop – perfect for an Ava Gardner cocktail.
In August, concerts are held on various nights by the light of the lighthouse.
Beaches & Boats BEACHESThe main town beach, golden Platja Gran , tends to be busy.
Beyond the headland,at the end of Avinguda de Sant Ramon Penyafort, is the quieter and smaller PlatjaMar Menuda , popular with divers.
The best beaches, however, are found northand south along the coast, accessible only to those with their own transport, or energetic walkers (see the boxed text, Click here ).
In the period from Easter to September glass-bottomed boats (www.fondocristal.com; adult/5-12yr 14/9) run hourly or half-hourly (10am to5pm, 20 minutes) to more tranquil beaches northeast of Platja Gran, such as CalaGiverola (a pleasant sandy cove with a couple of restaurants and bars).
Museu Municipal MUSEUM(Pla?a de Roig i Soler 1; adult/child 3/free; 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm &4-8pm Sun & Mon mid-Jun–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year) In the lower part ofVila Vella, the Museu Municipal, set in the 14th- and 15th-century Palau del Batlle,has mosaics and other finds from a Roman villa , off Avinguda del Pelegrí, andTossa-related art, including Chagall’s Celestial Violinist .
Sleeping Most accommodation is open from Semana Santa (Holy Week) to October, withonly a handful of options outside those months.
HOSTAL Hostal Cap d’Or ( 972 34 00 81; www.hotelcapdor.com; Passeig de la Vila Vella 1; s/d inclbreakfast 63/103; ) Rub up against the town’s history in this family-run spotright in front of the walls.
Rooms are lovingly decorated in sea-blues and whites andthe best of them look straight onto the beach.
Hotel Diana HOTEL( 972 34 18 86; www.hotelesdante.com; Pla?a d’Espanya 6; d incl breakfast145, with sea views 170-180; Apr-Nov; ) Fronting Platja Gran, thisartistic 1920s hotel has a Gaudí-built fireplace in the lounge and oozes Modernistadecor and stained glass in the central covered courtyard.
Half of the spacious, tiledrooms have beach views.
Hotel Hermes HOTEL( 972 34 02 96; www.hotelhermes-tossademar.com; Avenguda Ferrán Agulló 6;s/d 35/58; ) This pink concoction a block from the bus station has compacten suites with marble floors, presided over by a friendly se?ora .
A bargain for theprice, especially with the Jacuzzi on the roof thrown in.
Camping Cala Llevadó CAMPGROUND( 972 34 03 14; www.calallevado.com; sites per adult 12; May-Sep; ) This ground stretches back from a cove 4km southwest of Tossa in the settlement of Santa Maria de Llorell.
As well as its shady camping spots and primelocation with steps leading down to a pretty beach, there are tennis courts, a pool, arestaurant, shops and bars.
It also has four-person bungalows from 115.
Eating Look out for a local speciality, cim-i-tomba, a hearty one-pot fish-and-vegetablestew, harking back to Tossa’s fishing days.
There are plenty of paella-and-sangriarestaurant cliches, but a lot of good seafood as well.
CATALAN La Cuina de Can Simon ( 972 34 12 69; Carrer del Portal 24; mains 30-50, taster menus 68-98;lunch & dinner Wed-Sat & Mon, lunch Sun) Tossa’s culinary star nestles by the oldwalls in a former fisherman’s stone house and distinguishes itself by the most imaginative creations in town.
Taking the mar i muntanya theme to its logical extreme, it presents you with pig trotters with sea cucumber as well as the moremainstream fideuá with rock fish.
Even if you’re not splurging on the gobstoppinglygood taster menu, stop by for the chocolate soup.
Can Calav SPANISH(Carrer Socors; tapas 6-7) The dangling bundles of dried chillies and farmingapparel create a cosy rustic atmosphere in an appealing seafront location, and whilethe menu may not be the most original, everything – from the calamares a la romana to the patatas bravas – is executed perfectly.
Information Tourist information office ( 972 34 01 08; www.infotossa.com; Avinguda delPelegrí 25; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorterhours rest of year) Next to the bus station.
Getting There & Away From April to October, a couple of companies run boats several times daily betweenBlanes, Lloret de Mar and Tossa de Mar (one to 1? hours) and beyond.
Catch oneof the rodalies from Barcelona’s Catalunya station to Blanes, then transfer to theboat.
Tickets are sold on the beach.
Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) runs to/from Barcelona’s Estació del Nord (12, 1?hours, up to 11 daily) via Lloret de Mar (1.
Buses to other destinations areinfrequent.
The bus station is next to the tourist office.
The C32 autopista connects Tossa to Barcelona, while the picturesque GI682leads north to Sant Feliu de Guíxols.
MUSEU DEL MAR DE LLORET Lloret de Mar may be a Costa Brava cliché, complete with rampaging neon-and- concrete development, bingo-playing pensioners and cheesy clubs, but it’s worth a detour for this museum.
The excellent Museu del Mar de Lloret (www.lloretdemar.org; Passeig Camprodon I Arrieta 1; admission 4; 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) provides context for Lloret’s metamorphosis from a fishing village to a major trade port to a holiday resort through its engrossing exhibits, such as the display of scale model boats and period furnishings.
Until Charles III removed the ban on Catalonia’s trade with the Americas in 1778, Lloret and its counterparts were simple fishing villages, but once trans-Atlantic trade took off, mass emigration followed and many Catalans went abroad to make their fortune in Latin America and the Caribbean in industries such as cotton and the slave trade.
Some – such as the local Macía and Porés families – became fabulously wealthy and were afterwards referred to as Americanos or indianos , whereas those who came back as poor as when they’d left were teased for ‘losing their suitcase in the strait’.
Sant Feliu de Guíxols POP 21,810 A snaking road hugs the spectacular ups and downs of the Costa Brava for the23km from Tossa de Mar to Sant Feliu de Guíxols with – allegedly – a curve foreach day of the year.
Sant Feliu itself has an attractive waterside promenade and a handful of curiousleftovers from its long past, the most important being the so-called Porta Ferrada(Iron Gate): a wall and entrance, which is all that remains of a 10th-century monastery, the Monestir de Sant Benet .
The gate lends its name to an annualmusic festival held here every July since 1962.
Just north along the coast is the village of S’agaró , each of its Modernista housesdesigned by Gaudí disciple Rafael Masó.
Leave your wheels behind and take theCamí de Ronda to Platja Sa Conca – one of the most attractive beaches in the area.
Sarfa buses call in here from Barcelona (14.
70, 1? hours, up to 12 daily), enroute to Palafrugell.
Palafrugell & Around Halfway up the coast from Barcelona to the French border begins one of the mostbeautiful stretches of the Costa Brava.
The town of Palafrugell, 5km inland, is themain access point for a cluster of enticing beach spots.
Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu, one-time fishing villages squeezed into small bays, are threeof the Costa Brava’s most charming, low-key resorts.
Begur, 7km northeast of Palafrugell, is a curious, tight-knit, castle-topped vil
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