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rnstein.
at; Hauptstrasse 25; 8am-noon Mon-Fri, plus 1-4pm Mon, 1-7pm Tue), which also has some information.
Getting There & Away Brandner (www.brandner.
at) boats connect Dürnstein with Krems (20 to 30 minutes) once or twice daily from mid-April to late October.
The landing station is near Chorherrenstift.
Dürnstein is linked to Melk (45 minutes, hourly) and Krems (25 minutes, 18 daily) by bus.
This is by far the most convenient way to travel.
Dürnstein’s train station is called Dürnstein-Oberloiben, with connections to Krems (17 minutes, three daily) and Weissenkirchen (seven minutes, three daily).
Weissenkirchen 02715 / POP 1440 In Weissenkirchen, 12km from Krems, the main attraction is the pretty hilltop fortified parish church, the front doors of which are approached along a labyrinth of covered pathways.
This Gothic church was built in the 15th century and has a baroque altar and a garden terrace with good views of the Danube.
Below the church is the charming Teisenhoferhof arcaded courtyard, with a covered gallery and lashings of flowers and dried corn.
The Wachau Museum (Weissenkirchen 32; adult/child 5/2.
50; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) houses works by artists of the Danube school.
The Raffelsberger Hof ( 22 01; www.raffelsbergerhof.
at; Freisingerplatz 54; s 88-112, d 122-142; mid-Apr–Nov; ) is a four-star hotel in a small but beautifully renovated Renaissance castle.
Weissenkirchen has boat and train connections to Dürnstein but the easiest way to reach the village is by bus (eight minutes, 18 daily).
Spitz & Around 02713 / POP 1700 Situated 17km west of Krems on the north bank of the Danube, Spitz is a pleasant town that doesn’t get as clogged with visitors as Dürnstein.
It has a picturesque old town centre, and offers some good hiking in the surrounding forests and vineyards.
To reach the old town, turn left after leaving the station then head right up Marktstrasse to Kirchenplatz.
If the Gothic parish church (Marktstrasse) in Spitz is one too many Danube churches, pick up some maps from the tourist office and hike up to Burgruine Hinterhaus (Hinterhaus castle ruin) on the bluff for fantastic views of the valley; other trails run through the forests of the Jauerling Naturpark (Jauerling Nature Reserve) behind the castle ruin.
Hikes offering picturesque views also begin from Rotes Tor (Red Gate, 15 minutes walk from the church), a remnant of the town’s gates and the last one to be taken by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ War in 1618–48 – it was reputedly red from the blood of battle.
It’s a nice spot for a picnic with gob-smacking Wachau views all about.
Six kilometres west of Spitz, Mühldorf is home to the castle and hotel Burg Oberranna ( 8221; www.burg-oberranna.
at; s/d 88/148; ).
Surrounded by woods and overlooking the valley, it is furnished with period pieces and has a refreshing old- world feel.
If you decide to stay in Spitz, the tourist office can help with accommodation, or you can look for signs advertising private rooms.
Hotel Wachauer Hof ( 2303; www.wachauerhof-spitz.
at; Hauptstrasse 15; s 46-52 d 76-88; ) is very central, with comfortable rooms and a restaurant with outside seating in summer.
The tourist office ( 2363; www.spitz-wachau.com; Mittergasse 3a; 9am-12.
30pm & 1.
30-7pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun), situated 400m west of the station, has excellent free maps of the town with hiking trails marked and maintains a comprehensive Heuriger calendar.
Trains connect Spitz and Krems (35 minutes, three daily) but the bus (35 minutes, 20 daily) is a better option.
A taxi to Burg Oberanna costs about 17.
Driving & Cycling Tour The Danube Valley Start Krems End Krems Length 150km, one day From the Krems-Stein roundabout in Krems an der Donau take the B3 southwest towards Spitz.
About 3km from Krems-Stein you approach the small settlement of Unterloiben, where on the right you can see the Franzosendenkmal (French Monument), erected in 1805 to celebrate the victory of Austrian and Russian troops here over Napoleon.
Shortly afterwards the lovely town of Dürnstein , 6km from Krems, comes into view with its blue-towered Chorherrenstift backed by Kuenringerburg, the castle where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in 1192.
The valley is punctuated by picturesque terraced vineyards as you enter the heart of the Wachau.
In Weissenkirchen , 12km from Krems, you’ll find a pretty fortified parish church on the hilltop.
The Wachau Museum here houses work by artists of the Danube school.
A couple of kilometres on, just after W?sendorf, you find the church of St Michael, in a hamlet with 13 houses.
If the kids are along for this ride, now’s the time to ask them to count the terracotta hares on the roof of the church (seven, in case they’re not reading this!).
Some 17km from Krems, the pretty town of Spitz swings into view, surrounded by vineyards and lined with quiet cobblestone streets.
Some good trails lead across hills and to Heurigen (wine taverns) here (start from the church).
Turn right at Spitz onto the B217 (Ottenschl?ger Strasse).
The terraced hill on your right is 1000-Eimer-Berg, so-named for its reputed ability to yield 1000 buckets of wine each season.
On your left, high above the valley opening, is the castle ruin Burgruine Hinterhaus.
Continue along the B217 to the mill wheel and turn right towards Burg Oberranna , 6km west of Spitz in Mühldorf.
Surrounded by woods, this castle and hotel overlooking the valley is furnished with period pieces and has a refreshing old-worldly feel.
From here, backtrack down to the B3 and continue the circuit.
The valley opens up and on the left, across the Danube, you glimpse the ruins of Burg Aggstein.
Willendorf, located 21km from Krems, is where a 25,000-year-old figurine of Venus was discovered.
The original is today housed in the Naturhistorisches Museum in Vienna.
Continuing along the B3, the majestic Stift Melk rises up across the river.
There’s some decent swimming in the backwaters here if you’re game to dip into the Danube.
At Klein P?chlarn a sign indicates a first turn-off on Artstettner Strasse (L7255); follow it for 5km to Artstetten, unusual for its many onion domes.
From here, the minor road L7257 winds 6.
5km through a sweeping green landscape to Maria Taferl high above the Danube Valley.
Head 6km down towards the B3.
Turn left at the B3 towards Krems and follow the ramp veering off to the left and across the river at the Klein P?chlarn bridge.
Follow the road straight ahead to the B1 (Austria’s longest road) and turn left onto this towards Melk.
This first section along the south bank is uninteresting, but it soon improves.
Unless the weather isn’t playing along, across the river you can make out Artstetten in the distance, and shortly Stift Melk , will rise up ahead in a golden shimmering heap.
From Stift Melk, a 7km detour leads south to the splendid Renaissance castle of Schloss Schallaburg .
To reach the castle from the abbey in Melk, follow the signs to the Bahnhof (train station) and Lindestrasse east, turn right into Hummelstrasse /Kirschengraben (L5340) and follow the signs to the castle.
Backtrack to the B33.
Be careful to stay on the south side of the river.
When you reach the corner of Abt-Karl-Strasse and Bahnhofstrasse,
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