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and marble, alongside stellar Secessionist works such as Klimt’s mythology-inspired, gold-encrusted Pallas Athene (1898) and Egon Schiele’s Young Mother (1914).
VIENNA’S CITY WALLS The Ringstrasse runs along the line of the former 16th-century city walls.
These walls originally had the extra protection of a ditch or moat, beyond which a wide, sloped clearing allowed defenders to hurl the heavy stuff at their exposed invaders.
Anyone living in the Vorst?dte (inner suburbs) outside the fortress was expected to flee inside it as invading forces approached – or take their chances.
Stadtbahn Pavillons LANDMARK MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.wienmuseum.
at; 04, Karlsplatz; adult/under 19yr 4/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct; Karlsplatz) Peeking above the Resselpark at Karlsplatz are two of Otto Wagner’s finest designs, the Stadtbahn Pavillons.
Built in 1898 at a time when Wagner was assembling Vienna’s first public transport system (1893–1902), the pavilions are gorgeous examples of Jugendstil (art nouveau), with floral motifs and gold trim on a structure of steel and marble.
The west pavilion now holds an exhibit on Wagner’s most famous works, the Kirche am Steinhof – situated in the grounds of a psychiatric hospital and completed in 1907 – and Postsparkasse, which fans of Jugendstil will love.
The eastern pavilion is now home to Club U MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.club-u.
at; 04, Künstlerhauspassage; 9pm-4am; Karlsplatz).
KunstHausWien MUSEUM (Art House Vienna; www.kunsthauswien.com; 03, Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13; adult/child 10/5; 10am-7pm; 1, O Radetzkyplatz) The KunstHausWien, with its bulging ceramics, wonky surfaces, checkerboard facade, technicolor mosaic tilework and rooftop sprouting plants and trees, bears the inimitable hallmark of eccentric Viennese artist and ecowarrior Hundertwasser (1928–2000), who famously called the straight line ‘godless’.
It is an ode to his playful, boldly creative work, as well as to his green politics.
Besides quality temporary exhibitions featuring other artists, the gallery is something of a paean in honour of Hundertwasser, illustrating his paintings, graphics, tapestry, philosophy, ecology and architecture.
Monday is half-price day (unless it’s a holiday) and guided tours in German of the permanent exhibition leave at noon on Sundays and are included in the price.
Audio guides cost 3.
Hundertwasserhaus LANDMARK (03, cnr L?wengasse & Kegelgasse; 1 Hetzgasse) This residential block of flats bears all the wackily creative hallmarks of Hundertwasser, Vienna’s radical architect and lover of uneven surfaces, with its curvy lines, crayon-bright colours and mosaic detail.
It’s not possible to see inside, but you can cross the road to visit the Kalke Village (www.kalke-village.
at; 03, Kegelgasse 37-39; 9am-6pm; 1 Hetzgasse) , also the handiwork of Hundertwasser, created from an old Michelin factory.
It contains overpriced cafes, souvenir shops and art shops, all in typical Hundertwasser fashion with colourful ceramics and a distinct absence of straight lines.
Palais Liechtenstein PALACE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 319 57 67; www.liechtensteinmuseum.
at; 09, Fürstengasse 1; tours 20; guided tours 3pm 1st & 3rd Fri of month; Rossauer L?nde, D, 1 Seegasse) Once the muse of Italian landscape painter Canaletto, Palais Liechtens?tein is a sublime baroque palace, which sits in beautifully landscaped, sculpture-dotted grounds.
The palace containing the private collection of Prince Hans-Adam II of Liechtenstein, with around 200 paintings and 50 sculptures dating from 1500 to 1700, can be visited twice monthly on hour-long guided tours (in German only).
Book ahead.
Sigmund Freud Museum HOUSE MUSEUM MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.freud-museum.
at; 09, Berggasse 19; adult/child 8/3.
50; 9am-6pm; Schottentor, Schottenring, D Schlickgasse) Sigmund Freud is a bit like the telephone – once he happened, there was no going back.
This is where Freud spent his most prolific years and developed his groundbreaking theories; moving here with his family in 1891 and staying until he was forced into exile by the Nazis in 1938.
Pivotal to the permanent collection in this museum is the waiting room, where the Wednesday Psychological Society first met in 1902, the consulting room that once contained Freud’s famous couch (now in London) and Freud’s study.
An audio guide gives background on exhibits and interview excerpts, including one where Freud talks about psychoanalytic theory.
TICKETS FOR SCHLOSS SCH?NBRUNN If you plan to see several sights at Sch?nbrunn, purchase one of the combined tickets.
Prices vary according to whether it’s summer season (April to October) or winter.
The best way to get a ticket is to buy it in advance online.
Print the ticket yourself and present it when you enter.
? Summer Classic Pass (adult/under 19 years 18/11) Valid for the Grand Tour of Schloss Sch?nbrunn and Kronprinzengarten (Crown Prince Garden), Irrgarten (Maze) and Labyrinth, Gloriette with viewing terrace, and Hofbackstube Sch?nbrunn (Court Bakery) with the chance to watch apple strudel being made and enjoy the result with a cup of coffee.
? Summer Classic Pass ‘light’ (adult/under 19 years 13.
90/9.
50) Excludes the apple strudel show.
The Court Bakery Sch?nbrunn can be viewed separately (it’s inside Café Residenz).
? Summer Gold Pass (adult/under 19 years 36/18) Includes the Grand Tour, Kronprinzengarten, Tiergarten, Palmenhaus, Wüstenhaus, Wagenburg, Gloriette, Maze and Labyrinth, and Hofbackstube Sch?nbrunn.
? Winter Pass (adult/under 19 years 25/12) includes the Grand Tour, Tiergarten, Palmenhaus, Wüstenhaus, Wagenburg, Gloriette and Maze and Labyrinth.
Outside the Gürtel The districts that fall outside the Gürtel are quite an unusual blend.
Parts are rather dull and uninviting (by Viennese standards) – in particular towards the south – while others are beautiful beyond belief and home to some of Vienna’s greatest treasures.
Sch?nbrunn Top Sights 1 Schloss Sch?nbrunn C1 Sights 2 Gloriette C3 3 Kindermuseum C1 4 Kronprinzengarten D1 5 Labyrinth B2 6 Maze C2 7 Neptunbrunnen C2 8 Palmenhaus B2 9Roman Ruins C3 10 Schloss Sch?nbrunn Gardens C2 11 Sch?ner Brunnen C2 12 Tiergarten B2 13 Wagenburg C1 14 Wüstenhaus A1 Drinking & Nightlife Café Gloriette (see 2) Shopping 15 Sch?nbrunn Christmas Market C1 Schloss Sch?nbrunn PALACE MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.schoenbrunn.
at; 13, Sch?nbrunner Schlossstrasse 47; Imperial Tour with audio guide adult/child 11.
50/8.
50, Grand Tour 14.
50/9.
50; 8.
30am-5.
30pm; Hietzing) In contrast to Schloss Belvedere, which is mostly about art in an imperial surrounding, Schloss Sch?n?runn focuses on the palace itself, giving you a chance to see the lavish and exotically furnished rooms, soak up the atmosphere and learn more about the former inhabitants.
Of the palace’s 1441 rooms, 40 are open to the public; the Imperial Tour, which you do with an audio guide, takes you into 22 of these.
The east wing of the palace is accessible on the Grand Tour, with well-worthwhile extras like the Napoleon Room, where Europe’s diminutive reformer and conqueror resided when he occupied Vienna in 1805 and 1809, and the chance to venture into the bedroom of Maria Theresia.
The Habsb
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