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60; ) Studios with great views are perfect for those who want seclusion away from neighbouring Pelekas Beach.
Sunrock HOSTEL $ ( 26610 94637; Pelekas Beach; dm/r per person incl breakfast 18/25; ) Funky, laid- back and a bit worn.
Crash out on the terrace at sunset or party on the beach.
Jimmy’s Restaurant & Rooms PENSION $ ( 26610 94284; www.jimmyspelekas.com; Pelekas village; s/d/tr 30/40/50; Apr-Oct; ) Decent rooms with rooftop views sit above a popular restaurant (mains 6 to 12).
Pink Palace HOSTEL, HOTEL $ ( 26610 53103; www.thepinkpalace.com; Agios Gordios Beach; dm & r per person incl breakfast & dinner 21-45; ) Consuming the whole town in pink, and a party place par excellence, Pink Palace offers a range of utilitarian rooms, quad bikes, activities galore.
and loads of backpackers.
Paleokastritsa Camping CAMPGROUND $ ( 26630 41204; www.paleokastritsa-bliss.com; Paleokastritsa; camp sites per adult/car/tent 5/3.
50; late-May–mid-Oct; ) On the right of the main road to town, this shady and well- organised campground in historic olive terraces also has pool access.
Rolling Stone PENSION $ ( 26610 94942; www.pelekasbeach.com; Pelekas Beach; r/apt 35/88; ) Simple, colourful apartments and double rooms surround a big sun terrace with funky trappings and a shared kitchen at this laid-back place.
Hotel Zefiros HOTEL $$ ( 26630 41244; www.hotel-zefiros.
gr; Paleokastritsa; d/tr/q incl breakfast 75/95/115; ) Near the seafront and a delight, with immaculate, stylish rooms, some with a massive terrace, and a bright cafe.
Levant Hotel HOTEL $$ ( 26610 94230; www.levantcorfu.com; Pelekas village; d incl breakfast 80; May–mid-Oct; ) Simple rooms in this formerly grand old hotel sit up near the Kaiser’s Throne; the sea-facing ones have glorious sunset views.
Kallisto Resort APARTMENT $$$ ( 6977443555; www.corfuresorts.
gr; Pelekas Beach; apt/villa from 160/220; ) A well- appointed array of apartments and villas sleep two to 12, and cascade down the hillside overlooking the north end of Pelekas Beach.
Villas have private pools, gardens are manicured and life is good at this quietly luxurious getaway with all the mod cons.
Eating & Drinking Alonaki Bay Taverna TAVERNA $ ( 26610 75872; Alonaki; mains 8-10; lunch & dinner) Follow the dirt roads to the point north of Lake Korission for this simple family-run taverna with a small menu of home-cooked meat and mayirefta (ready-cooked meals).
Clean rooms and apartments overlook a garden and dramatic cliffs.
To Stavrodromi TAVERNA $ ( 26610 94274; Pelekas; mains 7-11; dinner) At the crossroads of the Pelekas and Corfu Town roads, this homey joint offers delicious local specialities.
It’s known for the best kontosouvli (pork on a spit) on the island.
Nereids TAVERNA $ ( 26630 41013; Paleokastritsa; mains 6-11; lunch & dinner) Halfway down the winding road to Paleokastritsa beach is this smart place with a huge leafy courtyard.
Specialities include pork in mustard sauce with oregano and lemon.
Limani TAVERNA $ ( 26630 42080; Paleokastritsa Harbour; mains 5-11; lunch & dinner) Local dishes with a sure hand on a rose-bedecked terrace.
Spyros & Vasilis FRENCH $$ ( 26610 52552; www.spirosvasilis.com; Agios Ioannis; mains 15-21; lunch & dinner) It may seem odd to go to a French restaurant in Greece, but this understated, upscale restaurant may make the best steaks on the island.
The patios have gentle valley views and service is attentive.
Signposted across from Aqualand on the road from Corfu Town to Paleokastritsa.
La Grotta CAFE (www.lagrottabar.com; Paleokastritsa) Cool sun-seekers hang out at this cafe-bar set in a beautiful rocky cove with sun beds and diving board.
Located down steps opposite the Hotel Paleokastritsa driveway.
PAXI ΠΑΞΟΙ POP 2200 Paxi lives up to its reputation as one of the Ionians’ most idyllic islands.
At only 10km by 4km it’s the smallest of the main holiday islands and makes a fine escape from Corfu’s quicker-paced pleasures.
Three colourful harbour towns, Ga?os, Loggos and Lakka, have charming waterfronts with pink-and-cream buildings set against lush green hills.
Gemlike coves can be reached by motorboat, if not by car or on foot.
The dispersed inland villages sit within centuries-old olive groves, accented by winding stone walls, ancient windmills and olive presses.
On the less accessible west coast, sheer limestone cliffs punctuated by caves and grottoes plunge hundreds of metres into the azure sea.
Old mule trails are a walker’s delight.
Find Bleasdale Walking Map of Paxos (12) at travel agencies.
Getting There & Away BOAT Ferries dock at Ga?os’ new port, 1km east of the central square.
Excursion boats dock along the waterfront.
Two busy passenger-only hydrofoils link Corfu and Paxi (20, 55 minutes, one to three daily May to mid-October), and occasionally Igoumenitsa.
Arvanitakis Travel and Petrakis Lines (in Corfu) handle Ilida; and Bouas Tours ( 26620 32401; www.bouastours.
gr; Ga?os) and Zefi ( 26620 32114; Ga?os) handle Despina.
Two daily car ferries link Paxi and Igoumenitsa (10).
For schedules try the ferry information office in Igoumenitsa.
Fast sea taxis are priced by boat.
Corfu to Paxi costs 300; try Nikos ( 6932232072, 26620 32444; www.paxosseataxi.com; Ga?os).
BUS Twice-weekly direct buses go between Athens and Paxi (55, plus 7.
50 for the ferry between Paxi and Igoumenitsa, seven hours) in high season.
On Paxi, get tickets from Bouas Tours.
Getting Around A bus links Ga?os and Lakka via Loggos up to four times daily (2.
Taxis between Ga?os and Lakka or Loggos cost around 12.
The taxi rank in Ga?os is by the inland car park and bus stop.
Many travel agencies rent small boats (40 to 90 depending on engine capacity) – great for accessing coves.
Daily car hire starts at 38 in high season.
Alfa Hire ( 26620 32505; Ga?os) Arvanitakis Travel ( 26620 32007; Ga?os) TOP OF CHAPTER Ga?os Γα?ο? POP 560 Ga?os, the island’s main town, hardly needs to try for the ‘picturesque’ label.
Pink, cream and whitewashed buildings line the edge of an emerald bay on either side of the Venetian square.
The village is protected by the wooded islet of Agios Nikolaos, named after its monastery.
Ga?os has the liveliest nightlife on the island, and cafes and tavernas line the waterfront.
Sleeping & Eating San Giorgio Apartments PENSION $ ( 26620 32223; s/d studios 40/50; ) Pink, blue and white are the colours of these peaceful, airy and clean studios with basic cooking facilities.
Rooms 1 and 2 have fantastic balconies over the channel, others share a terrace.
Theklis Studios PENSION $$ (Clara Studios; 26620 32313; http://theklis-studios.com; studios 60-80; ) Thekli, a local fisher-diver, runs these immaculate, well-equipped studios.
She’ll meet you at the port if you call ahead.
Paxos Beach Hotel HOTEL $$$ ( 26620 32211; www.paxosbeachhotel.
gr; d incl breakfast 130-190, ste 200-230; ) On a tiny cove with private beach, jetty, swimming pool, tennis court and restaurant, 1.
5km south of Ga?os; bungalow-style rooms step down to the sea.
Port transfers are available.
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