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Karkaletzos TAVERNA $ ( 26620 32129; mains 7-10; 7.
45-11pm) Walk up an appetite to this grill house, a local favourite, 1km behind town.
Meat dishes are balanced by creative fish cuisine.
Carnayo MEDITERRANEAN $$ ( 26620 32376; www.carnayopaxos.
gr; mains 8-16; lunch & dinner) Striving for a higher level of service and a broader range of dishes than usual, Carnayo usually succeeds.
Information The main street (Panagioti Kanga) runs inland from the square towards the back of town, where you’ll find the bus stop, taxi rank and car park.
Banks and ATMs are near the square.
There’s no tourist office, but travel agencies, such as Paxos Magic Holidays ( 26620 32269; www.paxosmagic.com), organise excursions, book tickets and arrange accommodation.
TOP OF CHAPTER Loggos Λ?γγο? Exquisite Loggos sits 5km northwest of Ga?os and is a gem of a place with a dainty waterfront curled round a small bay.
Bars and restaurants overlook the water and wooded slopes climb steeply above.
Explore coves and pebble beaches nearby.
Sleeping & Eating Hit waterside cafe-bars for cocktails and music.
Arthur House APARTMENT $$ ( 26620 31330; http://paxos-arthur.
gr; studios 60; ) Modest, spotless studios sit above the owner’s house, a 50m walk inland from the waterfront.
O Gios TAVERNA $ ( 26620 31735; mains 8-12; lunch & dinner) Home-cooked, good-value seafood and grill dishes.
Vasilis MEDITERRANEAN $$ ( 26620 31587; mains 9-16; lunch & dinner) You may have your best meal in the Ionians here.
The waterside ambience is distinctly low-key, but the food is excellent.
Lighter-than-air zucchini balls are to die for; salads are perfectly balanced; and everything is fresh, fresh, fresh.
Specialities include octopus in red- wine sauce, lamb casserole, pasta and risotto.
Reserve ahead in summer.
Information The village and Café Bar Four Seasons ( 26620 31829; ) has wi-fi.
Hire boats (50 to 70) and scooters (20) from Julia’s Boat & Bike at Arthur House.
TOP OF CHAPTER Magazia Μαγαζι? Barely more than a crossroads several kilometres southwest of Loggos, on the western side of the island, Magazia makes a great pit stop for its two cafe-bars.
Eating & Drinking Erimitis Bar MEDITERRANEAN $$ ( 6977753499; www.erimitis.com; mains 13-16; noon-10pm May-Oct) Rumble down dirt roads under olive trees to find this spectacular spot overlooking majestic cliffs plunging straight into the bluest of seas.
Whether for sunset or an afternoon drink, it’s well worth the journey if you have your own wheels.
Kafeneio Burnaos CAFE Don’t blink or you’ll miss this wonderful 60-year-old kafeneio (coffee house).
There are no set hours, but locals gather here to play cards and backgammon (one set dates from 1957).
TOP OF CHAPTER Lakka Λ?κκα The picturesque, tranquil harbour of Lakka lies at the end of a shielding bay on the north coast.
Yachts dot ice-blue waters, small beaches like Harami Beach lie round the bay’s headland, and pleasant walks crisscross the area.
Sleeping & Eating Yorgos Studios APARTMENT $ ( 26620 31807; www.routsis-holidays.com; d 50-70; ) Immaculate and comfy, it’s next door to and run by Routsis Holidays, which represents many studios and apartments.
Torri E Merli BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 26212 34123; www.torriemerli.com; ste from 290; May-Oct; ) The island’s premier lodging – a tiny, perfect boutique hotel in a renovated stone mansion tucked into the hills 800m south of Lakka.
Diogenis TAVERNA $ ( 26620 31442; mains 4-10; lunch & dinner Jun-Sep) This popular eatery in the square in the centre of the village dishes out cuttlefish with spinach and lamb in lemon sauce, among other well-done classics.
Information Helpful Routsis Holidays ( 26620 31807; www.routsis-holidays.com) books well-appointed apartments and villas for all budgets and arranges transport and excursions.
Paxos Blue Waves ( 26620 31162; www.paxos-studios.
gr) rents boats (35 to 65) and scooters (20).
ANTIPAXI ΑΝΤΙΠΑΞΟΙ POP 25 The stunning and diminutive island of Antipaxi, 2km south of Paxi, is covered with vineyards and olive groves with the occasional hamlet here and there.
Ca?ques and tourist boats run daily, in high season, from Ga?os and Lakka, and go to two beach coves – the small, sandy Vrika Beach and the pebbly Voutoumi Beach.
Floating in the water here, with its dazzling clarity, is a sensational experience.
An inland path links the two beaches (a 30-minute walk) or, for the very energetic, walk up to the village of Vigla, or as far as the lighthouse at the southernmost tip.
Take plenty of water and allow 1? hours minimum each way.
Voutoumi and Vrika each have two restaurants (mains 7 to 15).
Accommodation is available through tavernas.
Getting There & Away Boats to Antipaxi (7 return, high season only) leave Ga?os at 10am and return around 4.
30pm (more services in July and August).
LEFKADA ΛΕΥΚΑΔΑ POP 22,710 Lefkada (or Lefkas) is the sleeper hit of the Ionians.
Mountainous and remote in the centre, with gorgeous vistas and forests, the island is lined on its west coast with some of the best beaches in Greece.
Holiday resorts tend to cling to the east coast where 10 satellite islets dot the sea.
Lefkada is less insular than most islands; it was once attached to the nearby mainland by a narrow isthmus until occupying Corinthians breached it with a canal in the 8th century BC.
A causeway now spans the 25m strait, yet Lefkada remains steadfastly islandlike in the best of ways.
In remote villages older women sport traditional dress and the main town, Lefkada Town, has a refreshing mid- 20th-century appeal.
Getting There & Away AIR The closest airport is 20km north of Lefkada, near Preveza (Aktion; PVK) on the mainland.
The only domestic airline serving Preveza is Sky Express ( 28102 23500; www.skyexpress.
gr) with services to Corfu (55, 25 minutes), Kefallonia (49, 20 minutes), Zakynthos (55, one hour), Kythira (60, 2? hours) and Sitia (Crete; 99, two hours, June to September only).
Air Berlin has occasional flights.
May to September charter flights from northern Europe and the UK serve Preveza.
BOAT West Ferry (www.westferry.
gr) runs daily boats on an ever-changing schedule from Vasiliki to Kefallonia and Ithaki.
Some months, the ferry Ionian Pelagos ( 26450 31520) goes from Vasiliki via Piso Aetos in Ithaki to Sami in Kefallonia.
For information and booking try Samba Tours ( 26450 31520; www.sambatours.
gr; Vasiliki).
Boat Services from Vasiliki, Lefkada DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Fiskardo (Kefallonia) 1hr 8 2 daily Frikes (Ithaki) 2hr 8 5 weekly Piso Aetos (Ithaki) 1hr 8 2 weekly Sami (Kefallonia) 1?hr 8 1 daily BUS Lefkada Town’s KTEL bus station ( 26450 22364; www.ktel-lefkadas.
gr; Ant Tzeveleki), 1km from the centre, opposite the new marina serves Athens (33.
80, 5? hours, four daily), Patra (16.
20, three hours, two weekly), Thessaloniki (35.
40, eight hours, three weekly), Preveza (2.
70, 30 minutes, six daily) and Igoumenitsa (12.
20, two hours, daily).
Getting Around There’s no bus between Lefkada and Preveza’s Aktion airport.
Taxis cost 37 to Lefkada Town, 55 to
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