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i and Porto Heli.
Conventional ferries connect Aegina to Poros and Methana on the mainland.
Travel agents sell tickets.
Ca?ques shuttle constantly between Poros and Galatas (0.
80, five minutes).
They leave from the quay opposite Plateia Iro?n, the triangular plaza near the main ferry dock in Poros Town.
Hydrofoils dock about 50m north of here and car ferries to Galatas (person/car 0.
80/5.
60) leave from the dock several hundred metres north again, on the road to Kalavria.
You can also do a one-way rental between branches of Pop’s Car ( in Galatas 22980 42910; www.popscarrental.com) at Athens airport and Galatas (or Ermioni).
Galatas has a bus station ( 22980 42480).
Boat Services from Poros DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Aegina 1?hr 8.
30 2-3 daily Hydra* 30min 12.
50 5-6 daily Methana 30min 4.
50 2-3 daily Piraeus 2?hr 12.
80 2-3 daily Piraeus* 1hr 22.
50 5-6 daily Spetses* 1?hr 14.
50 3-4 daily *high-speed services Getting Around BOAT Ca?ques go to beaches during summer.
BUS A bus (3) operates May to October every half hour from 7am until midnight on a route that starts next to the kiosk at the eastern end of Plateia Iro?n.
It crosses to Kalavria and goes east along the south coast as far as Moni Zo?dohou Pigis (10 minutes), then turns around and heads west to Neorion Beach (15 minutes).
MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE Several places on the road to Kalavria rent out bicycles/scooters (per day 15/4) Fotis ( 22980 25873) Stelios ( 22980 23026) TAXI Taxi ( 22980 23003) TOP OF CHAPTER Poros Town POP 4102 Zippy Poros Town is a mishmash of charming ice cream–coloured houses that look out across the narrow channel at Galatas and the shapely mountains of the Peloponnese.
Sailboats bob along the lengthy quay while ferries glide through the channel and smaller vessels scurry to and fro.
Behind the harbour, plateies (squares) and tavernas hide from view and a rocky bluff rises steeply to a crowning clock tower.
Sleeping Seven Brothers Hotel HOTEL $ ( 22980 23412; www.7brothers.
gr; s/d/tr 40/45/55; ) Conveniently close to the hydrofoil quay, this modern hotel has bright, comfy rooms with super-duper bathrooms.
Some have small balconies, some sea views.
Georgia Mellou Rooms PENSION $ ( 22980 22309; http://porosnet.
gr/gmellou; Plateia Georgiou; d/tr 30/40; ) Simple, old- fashioned rooms are tucked into the heart of old town, next to the cathedral, high above the harbour.
The charming owner keeps everything ship-shape.
Book ahead for fantastic views from west-side rooms.
Hotel Manessi BUSINESS HOTEL $ ( 22980 22273; www.manessi.com; Paralia; d 40-50; ) Well placed at the mid- point of the harbour, the Manessi is a bit worn in places but offers business-style rooms.
Roloi APARTMENTS $$ ( 22980 25808; www.storoloi-poros.
gr; studio/apt/house from 55/100/150; ) Good source for apartments in town.
Eating Aspros Gatos SEAFOOD, TAVERNA $ ( 22980 25650; www.whitecat.
gr; Labraki 49; mains 6-15; lunch & dinner Easter-Oct) A short walk from town, 400m west of the bridge on the road to Neorion Beach, Poros’ best seafood taverna sits smack out over the water.
Watch the local kayaking team do their thing as the jolly owner provides anything from bolognese to the catch of the day.
Taverna Karavolos TAVERNA $ ( 22980 26158; www.karavolos.com; mains 6-9; dinner) Karavolos means ‘big snail’, and snails are a speciality of the house at this quaint eatery on a backstreet.
Friendly proprietors also offer classic Greek meat dishes and some fish.
Dimitris Family Taverna TAVERNA $ ( 22980 23709; mains 6-10; dinner) Renowned for their meat, the owners have a butchering business, so cuts of pork, lamb and chicken are of the finest quality.
Oasis TAVERNA $ ( 22980 22955; mains 6-12; lunch & dinner) Harbourside home-cooked Greek staples and seafood.
Information Poros has no tourist office.
Harbourfront agencies arrange accommodation, car hire, tours and cruises.
Banks on Plateia Iro?n have ATMs.
Askeli Travel ( 22980 25857; www.askelitravel.com) Family Tours ( 22980 23743; www.familytours.
gr) Sells conventional-ferry tickets.
Marinos Tours ( 22980 23423; www.marinostours.
gr) Across from the hydrofoil quay; sells hydrofoil tickets.
Tourist Police ( 22980 22256; Dimosthenous 10) Behind the high school.
TOP OF CHAPTER Around Poros Poros’ best beaches include the pebbly Kanali Beach, on Kalavria 1km east of the bridge, and the long, sandy Askeli Beach, about 500m further east.
Askeli has a few year-round seafront tavernas and Hotel New Aegli ( 22980 22372; www.newaegli.com; d 50-90; ), a decent resort-style hotel, with all the expected amenities and sea views.
The 18th-century monastery Moni Zo?dohou Pigis, well signposted 4km east of Poros Town, has a beautiful gilded iconostasis from Asia Minor.
Nearby, Sirene Blue Resort ( 22980 22741; www.sireneblueresort.
gr; Monastiri Beach; d incl breakfast 120-155; ) offers a deluxe seaside vacation.
From the road below the monastery head inland to reach the 6th-century Temple of Poseidon.
There’s very little left of the temple, but the walk gives superb views of the Saronic Gulf and the Peloponnese.
From the ruins you can continue along the road and circle back to the bridge onto Sferia.
It’s about 6km in total.
Neorion Beach, 3km west of the bridge, has water skiing and banana-boat and air-chair rides.
The best beach is at Russian Bay, 1.
5km past Neorion.
HYDRA POP 3044 Hydra (ee-dhr-ah) is truly the gem of the Saronic Gulf and stands alone among Greek islands as the one free of wheeled vehicles.
No cars or scooters, just tiny marble-cobbled lanes, donkeys, rocks and sea.
Artists (Brice Marden, Nikos Chatzikyriakos-Ghikas, Pana-yiotis Tetsis), musicians (Leonard Cohen), actors and celebrities (Melina Mercouri, Sophia Loren) and travellers (you) have all been drawn to Hydra over the years.
So in addition to the island’s exquisitely preserved stone architecture, criss-crossing rural paths and clear, deep waters, you can find a good cappuccino along the people-watching harbour.
The mules and donkeys are the main means of heavy transport and they, along with the rustic aspects of life on the island, give Hydra its two faces: chic and earthy.
History Hydra was sparsely populated in ancient times and is just mentioned in passing by Herodotus.
The most significant evidence of settlement dates from Mycenaen times.
But, in the 16th century, Hydra became a refuge for people fleeing the skirmishes between the Venetians and the Ottomans.
Many hailed from the area of modern-day Albania.
By the mid-1700s the settlers began building boats and took to the thin line between maritime commerce and piracy with enthusiasm.
They travelled as far as Egypt and the Black Sea and ran the British blockade during the Napoleonic Wars (1805–15).
As a result of steady tax paying, the island experienced only light interference under the Ottoman Empire.
By the 19th century, Hydra had become a full-blown maritime power, and wealthy shipping merchants had built most of the town’s grand mansions.
At its height in 1821, the island’s population reached 28,000.
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