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the Batsi road.
Andros Camping CAMPGROUND $ ( 22820 71444; www.campingandros.
gr; per adult/tent 6.
50/3.
50; ) Set up among tiny olive trees about 400m along a winding road behind the harbour.
Perrakis HOTEL $$ ( 22820 71456; www.hotelperrakis.com; Chrissi Ammos; d incl breakfast from 100; year-round; ) Across the road from the sweep of Golden Beach, south of Gavrio, are super views and swell rooms.
Giannoulis TAVERNA $ ( 22820 71385; Agios Petros Beach; mains 6-10; lunch & dinner Jun-Sep, lunch only May & Oct) Tuck into traditional Greek fare on the waterfront at Agios Petros Beach, between Gavrio and Batsi.
Information Buses stop at the ferry quay.
There are ATMs and a post office.
Check www.andros.
gr for island information.
Kyklades Travel ( 22820 72363) Opposite the ferry quay.
Sells ferry tickets and arranges accommodation.
TOP OF CHAPTER Batsi POP 957 Worn little Batsi lies 7km southeast of Gavrio on the overbuilt shores of a handsome bay with a long beige-sand beach.
The island’s main resort, it revs up through July and August.
Sleeping & Eating Book ahead for July and August and weekends in June and September.
Cavo D’ora Pension PENSION $ ( 22820 41766; www.andros-cavodoro.
gr; s/d 30/45) Located above a pizzeria across from the beach, the handful of pleasant rooms are good value.
Krinos Suites Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ( 22820 42038; www.krinoshotel.com; Batsi; ste from 180; Apr-Oct) One of Andros’ high- end entries is decked out with organic toiletries and mattresses.
Some rooms have sea-view balconies.
Stamatis Taverna TAVERNA $$ ( 22820 41283; mains 6-18; lunch & dinner) Sup above the harbour on starters such as pikandiko (feta, tomato, green pepper, oregano and spices baked in a pot) and delicious soups.
Information Greek Sun Holidays ( 22820 41198; www.andros-greece.com) Helps with accommodation, car hire, ferry tickets and island walks and excursions.
TOP OF CHAPTER Hora (Andros) POP 1801 Hora perches dramatically on a rocky promontory and has surprising views through the neoclassical mansions to two vibrant bays on either side: Niborio and Paraporti.
The peninsula is tipped by the remains of a Venetian fortress, and the town itself owes its grand mansions and squares to both the Venetian settlement and the shipowners who came to inhabit it.
Hora’s cultural pedigree is burnished by its Museum of Contemporary Art, an impressive archaeological museum and several important churches.
Sights & Activities Museum of Contemporary Art MUSEUM ( 22820 22444; www.moca-andros.
gr; adult/student Jun-Sep 6/3, Oct-May 3/1.
50; 10am-2pm & 6-8pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 10am-2pm Sun Jun-Sep, reduced hours Oct-May) This venerable museum has earned a reputation in the international art world for its outstanding summer exhibitions of world-famous artists.
Exhibits have included the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec and Miró.
The year-round sculpture gallery features prominent Greek artists, and a sea-view cafe offers homemade sweets.
Andros Archaeological Museum MUSEUM ( 22820 23664; Plateia Ka?ri; adult/child/student 3/2/free; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov, Fri & Sun only Dec-Mar) Peruse the exquisite 2nd-century BC marble copy of the 4th-century bronze Hermes of Andros by Praxiteles, and other impressive finds from the 9th- to 5th-century BC settlements of Zagora and Paleopoli on Andros’ west coast, as well as from the Roman, Byzantine and early Christian periods.
Venetian Fortress RUIN The ruins of a Venetian fortress stand on an island linked to the tip of the headland by the worn remnants of an arched stone bridge.
Afanis Naftis MONUMENT The huge bronze sailor that stands in Plateia Riva celebrates Hora’s seagoing traditions.
Kidonieos Foundation ARTS CENTRE ( 22820 24598; Empirikou; high season) Hosts a summer program of art, theatre and music.
Sleeping Prices rise on weekends.
Karaoulanis Rooms & Apartments PENSION, APARTMENT $ ( 22820 24412; www.androsrooms.
gr; d/apt 50/100; ) Self-catering apartments on the inland edge of Hora and a guesthouse with rooms in Niborio both have comfortable furnishings.
Scooter and boat hire also.
Micra Anglia BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ ( 22820 22207; www.micra-anglia.
gr; Goulandri 13; d incl breakfast from 100; May-Oct; ) Hora’s luxury offering, with all the amenities.
Discounts online.
Archontiko Eleni BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ ( 22820 22270; www.archontikoeleni.
gr; Empirikou 9; d from 75; ) Snuggle into comfy beds in this neoclassical mansion.
Hotel Egli HOTEL $$ ( 22820 22060; www.eglihotel.
gr; d from 65; ) Housed in a grand old building, the Egli is an elegant, comfortable mix of old and new.
Eating Parea TAVERNA $ ( 22820 23721; Plateia Ka?ri; mains 6-10; lunch & dinner; ) Long-established and popular with locals, Parea boasts a super terrace overlooking Paraporti Beach.
Skalakia TAVERNA $ ( 22820 22822; mains 7-9; dinner Mon-Sat) Tables spill down the eponymous stairs from this buttercup-yellow restaurant.
Inside feels more like a bistro with quaint bric-a-brac and the Andriot specialities are tops! Nonna’s SEAFOOD $ ( 22820 23577; Plakoura; mains 6-10; lunch & dinner) Authentic mezedhes and fish dishes are the order of the day at this popular little taverna at the old harbour.
Ask about the fresh fish caught from the family boat.
Information The bus station is on Plateia Goulandri at the top of which sits a summer-only tourist information booth.
The pedestrianised marble main street leads downhill from here all the way to the Venetian kastro .
TOP OF CHAPTER Around Andros It’s worth renting a car to explore Andros’ vast mountains and sprinkling of villages as well as to reach its footpaths and beaches.
The north of the island, with the lush watershed around Arni, gives way to raw windswept hills as the road zigzags to Vourkoti and Agios Nikolaou with its sweeping views.
Paleopoli, 7km south of Batsi on the coast road, is the site of Ancient Andros and its sunken harbour.
Only rubble remains but the small Archaeological Museum of Paleopoli ( 22829 41985; 9am-4pm Tue, Thu & Fri) displays finds.
The island is cleaved by a sweeping agricultural valley and loads of small villages with springs, often marked by marble lions’ heads and the like, surround Hora.
The road winds through Sariza, Stenies, Mesathouri, Strapouries and Menites – all fun to explore.
In the south, visit quaint agricultural villages like Livadia, Kochilou, Piskopio and Aidonia, which has ruined tower houses.
The area’s charming landscape of fields and cypresses encircle Ormos Korthiou, an uninspiring bay-side village.
Activities Footpaths WALKING Andros is crisscrossed by trails.
For example, hike up the dramatic Dipotamata Gorge, signposted as you drive inland, after Sineti.
The trail, cobbled part of the way, leads past ancient bridges and water mills and through vivid foliage, water burbling below.
Many paths are difficult to locate, so get hold of the newly published Hiking in Andros guide, free from the city, or an excellent map (Anavasi’s Andros map; www.anavasi.
gr).
Better yet, book a guided walk with Trekking Andros ( 6937236362; www.trekkingandros.
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