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unbroken sea views and a reliable menu of souvlakia, shrimp, mousakas, pot roast rabbit stew and various seafood.
Apangio CAFE $ (Bouka; mezedhes 4; 9am-late; ) This sugarcube house fronting beautiful Bouka harbour has a chic, nautical feel with a cloud-frescoed ceiling, stone walls and friendly service.
Mainly a stop for coffee and mezedhes, they also serve breakfast and juice.
Information The large harbour complex abuts the port village right next to its main square, Plateia Iro?n Kasou.
Fry’s main street is Kritis.
The airport is 1km west along the coast road.
Turn left from the harbour to get to Emborio.
A stand-alone Commercial Bank ATM is next to the port entrance, while there’s a Co-operative Bank of the Dodecanese branch with an ATM on Plateia Iro?n Kasou.
An informative website in Greek and English is www.kasos.
Farmacy ( 22450 41164) For all medicinal needs.
Health Centre ( 22450 41333) Often unattended; you may need to call ahead.
Kasos Maritime & Travel Agency ( 22450 41495; www.kassos-island.
gr; Plateia Iro?n Kasou) For all travel tickets.
Run by Fotini.
Police ( 22450 41222) On a narrow paved street running south from Kritis.
Port Police ( 22450 41288) Behind the Agios Spyridon Church.
Post Office ( 7.
30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Diagonally opposite from the police.
Retro Cafe ( 8am-late) Offers free wi-fi.
TOP OF CHAPTER Around Kasos Tiny Emborio is a satellite port of Fry used for pleasure craft and fishing boats.
With a sandy beach and clear water, it’s the nearest place to Fry for a quick dip.
The island’s best beach is the isolated pebbled cove of Helatros, near Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, 11km southwest of Fry along a paved road.
The beach has no facilities and you’ll need your own transport to reach it.
Avlaki is another decent yet small beach here, reached along a track from the monastery.
None of Kasos’ beaches offer shade.
Agia Marina, 1km southwest of Fry, is a pretty village with a gleaming white- and-blue church.
On 17 July the Festival of Agia Marina is celebrated here.
From Agia Marina, the road continues to verdant Arvanitohori, with abundant fig and pomegranate trees.
Poli, 3km southeast of Fry, is the former capital, built on the ancient acropolis.
Panagia, between Fry and Poli, now has fewer than 50 inhabitants; its once-grand sea captains’ and many ship owners’ mansions are either standing derelict or under repair.
KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) POP 430 So close to the Turkish coast (2km away from Ka?) it can almost taste the East, far-flung Kastellorizo is insanely pretty, with cobbled alleys and brightly coloured neoclassical houses with tiled roofs and wrought-iron balconies reflecting in the horseshoe bay.
The island enjoys an enviable 320 days of sunshine per year, and the quality of the light here – the barren rock, the bright shades of the houses contrasted with the aquamarine-green of the sea – is stunningly photogenic.
And while it may lack powder-fine beaches the island lays claim to the fabulous Blue Cave.
With only a few ferries and flights per week, Kastellorizo is not an easy place to get to, but those who do make the effort are rewarded with tranquillity, simple accommodation and a few nice restaurants.
History Thanks to its harbour – allegedly the best between Beirut and Piraeus – Kastellorizo was once a thriving trade port serving Dorians, Romans, Crusaders, Egyptians, Turks and Venetians.
It came under Ottoman control in 1552 and its cargo fleet became the largest in the Dodecanese.
Kastellorizo lost all strategic and economic importance after the 1923 Greece–Turkey population exchange and in 1928 it was ceded to the Italians, who severely oppressed the islanders.
Many emigrated to Australia, where approximately 30,000 continue to live.
During WWII Kastellorizo suffered bombardment and English commanders ordered the few remaining inhabitants to abandon the island.
Most fled to Cyprus, Palestine and Egypt.
When they returned they found their houses in ruins, and many re-emigrated.
While the island has never fully recovered from this population loss, in recent years returnees have brought a period of resurgence and resettlement.
Getting There & Away You can hop on a flight to Rhodes or wait for a ferry or catamaran, although boat services from the island are often tenuous and always infrequent.
AIR Olympic has four flights per week to Rhodes (47, 20 minutes) from where you can get connections to Athens.
For flight and ferry tickets, visit Papoutsis Travel ( 6937212530, 22460 70630; www.kastelorizo.
gr) in Kastellorizo Village.
Boat Services from Kastellorizo (Megisti) DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Piraeus 23hr 81 1 weekly Rhodes 4?hr 22 2 weekly Rhodes* 2?hr 36 1 weekly *high-speed services Getting Around To reach the airport, take the sole island taxi ( 6938739178) from the port (5) or the local community bus (1.
The bus leaves the square by the port 1? hours prior to each flight departure.
TOP OF CHAPTER Kastellorizo Village POP 275 Besides Mandraki, the satellite neighbourhood over the hill, Kastellorizo Village is the main settlement on the island.
Its waterfront is skirted by vibrantly coloured three-storey mansions that sit directly on the turquoise water.
The labyrinthine backstreets are slowly being restored and rebuilt.
The village has a strong Aussie presence of returned expats, adding an upbeat cosmo energy to the community.
Sights Follow a rickety metal staircase up to the Knights of St John Castle for splendid views of Turkey.
Below the castle stands the museum ( 7am-2pm Tue-Sun) with a collection of archaeological finds, costumes and photos.
Beyond the museum, steps lead down to a coastal pathway from where more steps go up the cliff to a rock-hewn Lycian tomb with an impressive Doric facade dating back as far as the 4th century BC.
There are several along the Anatolian coast in Turkey, but they are very rare in Greece.
Moni Agiou Stefanou, on the north coast, is the setting for one of the island’s most important celebrations, the feast of Agios Stefanos on 1 August.
The path to the little white monastery begins behind the post office.
From the monastery, a path leads to a bay where you can swim.
Paleokastro was the island’s ancient capital.
Within the old city’s Hellenistic walls are an ancient tower, a water cistern and three churches.
To reach it (1km), follow the concrete steps just beyond a soldier’s sentry box on the airport road.
Activities Excursion boats go from Kastellorizo harbour to the spectacular Blue Cave (Parasta), famous for its brilliant, mirrorlike blue water, produced by refracted sunlight.
Visitors are transferred from a larger ca?que to a small motorised dingy in order to enter the very low cave entrance – claustrophobics be warned.
Inside, the cave reaches up 35m and sometimes you may see seals.
Visitors are usually allowed a quick dip.
The excursion costs about 15; look for Georgos Karagiannis who runs the Varvara and Agios Georgios daily from the harbour.
Boats leave at 9am and return around 1pm.
You can also take day trips to the islets of Ro and Strongyli for swims and picnics.
The trips cost about 20 and boats depart around 9am from the harbour.
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