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heilongjiang---jiamusi
i (1.
80, 20 minutes).
A taxi to Marmari is 15.
Around Karystos Explore the villages and chestnut forests nestling in the foothills between Mt Ohi and the coast.
The ruins of Castello Rosso (Red Castle), a 13th-century Frankish fortress, are a short walk from Myli.
Another 4km above Myli, there is an ancient Roman quarry (Kylindroi) scattered with massive columns of Karystian cipollino marble, abandoned since the time of Caesar.
Activities Hiking Day hikers will swoon over Dimosari Gorge, where a beautiful and well-maintained 10km trail can be covered in about four hours (including time for a swim).
Much of this stunning trek follows a cobbled path, splashing through shady creeks and forest before ending at Kallianos.
From Myli, a delightful, well-watered village 4km inland from Karystos, it’s a three- to four-hour hike to the summit of Mt Ohi (1398m), overlooking the sea.
The summit (Profitis Ilias peak) is home to the ancient and mysterious drakospita, or dragon houses, a group of Stonehenge-like dwellings or temples dating from the 7th century BC.
They were hewn from rocks weighing up to several tonnes and joined without mortar.
Smaller examples near the road to Styra (30km north of Karystos) are equally fascinating.
It’s also possible arrange a shuttle bus to a shelter-refuge at 1000m, overnight it and then hike up to catch the sunrise.
Contact Nikos at South Evia Tours for route and transport suggestions, both for Mt Ohi and Dimosari Gorge.
THE SPORADES TOP OF CHAPTER Skiathos POP 6110 Blessed with some of the Aegean’s most beautiful beaches, it’s little wonder that in July and August Skiathos can fill up with sun-starved northern European travellers, as prices soar and rooms dwindle.
Skiathos Town, the island’s major settlement and port, lies on the southeast coast.
The rest of the south coast is interspersed with walled-in holiday villas and pine-fringed sandy beaches.
Getting There & Away AIR During summer there is one flight daily to/from Athens (88), in addition to numerous charter flights from northern Europe.
Olympic Air ( 24270 22200; www.olympicair.com) has an office at the airport.
BOAT Skiathos’ main port is Skiathos Town, with links to Volos and Agios Konstantinos (on the mainland), and Skopelos and Alonnisos.
Tickets can be purchased from either Hellenic Seaways ( 24270 22209; fax 24270 22750) at the bottom of Papadiamanti or from NEL Lines ( 24270 22018) on the waterfront.
BOAT SERVICES FROM SKIATHOS DESTINATION TIME FARE FREQUENCY Agios Konstantinos 2?hr 30 1 daily Agios Konstantinos* 1?hr 37 1-2 daily Alonnisos 2?hr 11 1-2 daily Alonnisos* 1?hr 17 2-3 daily Skopelos (Glossa) 40min 6 4 weekly Skopelos (Glossa)* 20min 10 2-3 daily Skopelos (Skopelos Town) 1?hr 9.
50 1-2 daily Skopelos (Skopelos Town)* 40min 17 3-4 daily Volos 2?hr 23 1-2 daily Volos* 1?hr 38 2-3 daily *hydrofoil services Getting Around BOAT Water taxis depart hourly from the old port for Achladies Bay (2.
50, 15 minutes), Kanapitsa (3, 20 minutes) and Koukounaries (5, 30 minutes).
BUS Buses leave Skiathos Town for Koukounaries Beach (2, 30 minutes, every half- hour between 7.
30am and 11pm).
The buses stop at 26 numbered access points to the beaches along the south coast.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE Reliable motorbike and car-hire outlets in Skiathos Town include Europcar/Creator Tours ( 24270 22385), which also has bicycles, and Heliotropio Tourism & Travel ( 24270 22430), both on the new port.
TAXI The taxi stand ( 24270 21460) is opposite the ferry dock.
A taxi to/from the airport costs 6.
Skiathos Town The town is a major tourist centre, with hotels, souvenir shops, galleries, travel agents, tavernas and bars spread along the waterfront and narrow pedestrian thoroughfare, Papadiamanti.
Opposite the waterfront via a short causeway lies tiny and inviting Bourtzi Islet.
Sights Skiathos was the birthplace of famous 19th-century Greek novelist and short- story writer Alexandros Papadiamanti, whose writings draw upon the hard lives of the islanders he grew up with.
His humble 1860 house is now a charming museum (Plateia Papadiamanti; admission 1; 9.
30am-1.
30pm & 5-8.
30pm Tue-Sun) with books, paintings and old photos.
Tours Excursion boats make half- and full-day trips around the island (15 to 25), and usually visit Cape Kastro, Lalaria Beach and the three spilies (caves) of Halkini, Skotini and Galazia.
Other boats visit the nearby islets of Tsougria and Tsougriaki for swimming and snorkelling; you can take one boat over and return on another for 10.
Check out the signboards in front of each boat at the old port.
For a splendid sailing tour of the island waters between Skiathos and Alonnisos, climb aboard the Argo III ( 6932325167; www.argosailing.com; per person 65), managed by husband-and-wife team George and Dina.
Sleeping In busy July and August, there’s also a helpful quayside kiosk with prices, pictures and pitches.
Gisela’s Rooms-in-Town PENSION $ ( 6945686542, 24270 21370; gisbaunach@hotmail.com; r 45; ) Cosy and quiet on a back street off Papadiamanti, this well-managed budget choice has two rooms, two twin beds in each, overhead fans, mosquito screens, table, plus a flowery verandah.
The owner also manages the secluded seaside Villa Helidonia (Swallows Villa; 6945686542, 24270 21370; gisbaunach@hotmail.com; apt 75-95; ).
Lena’s Rooms PENSION $ ( 24270 22009; Bouboulinas; r from 35; ) These six double rooms over the owner’s flower shop are airy and spotless, each with mini-fridge, balcony, a well- equipped common kitchen and shady, flower-filled verandah.
Hotel Meltemi HOTEL $ ( 24270 22493; meltemi@skiathos.
gr; s/d/f 45/55/80; ) You could easily miss the friendly Meltemi, set back in a shady courtyard at the new port, but its old- fashioned charm is appealing, from antique-filled hallways to super-tidy rooms.
Hotel Bourtzi BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ ( 24270 21304; www.hotelbourtzi.
gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 70/100/125; ) On upper Papadiamanti, the swank Bourtzi escapes much of the town noise and features austere modern rooms and an inviting garden and pool.
Eating Skiathos has its share of overpriced touristy eateries with etsi-ketsi (so-so) food.
Explore the narrow lanes around the old port to find exceptions like those described below.
Taverna-Ouzerie Kabourelia TAVERNA $ (mains 4-9) Poke your nose into the open kitchen to glimpse the day’s catch at the only year-round eatery at the old port, with perfect fish grills at moderate prices.
Grilled octopus and taramasalata are just two of several standout mezedhes.
Taverna Hellinikon TAVERNA $ (mains 7-10; lunch & dinner) Opposite the church above the old port, little Hellinikon is a mother-and-daughter affair, with well-prepared taverna standards such as slow-roasted lamb with potatoes and lemon.
Good house wines, along with live Greek music summer evenings.
Lo & La ITALIAN $ ( 6972408465; mains 7.
50-12) Perched above the old port, Lo & La shows off an Italian-Greek couple’s kitchen favourites.
Pastas are handmade, and the risotto with local mushrooms excels.
Grill House Aura GREEK $ (Chicken George; mains 5-9) Locals call this popular
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